My Blog
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Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2012 5:04 PM
Apart from being overly affectionate, Lilly is her normal self...perhaps slowing up a little bit but still managing to throw herself around whilst on her dog walks. I will take her for her scan on Saturday 26th. |
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Posted on Sunday, May 20, 2012 5:00 PM
 Sassy is well and thriving in her 6th week of pregnancy. She is eating well and keeping fit. I have now stated giving her panacur for worming.
She is very affectionate and enjoying her cuddles on the sofa. |
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Posted on Thursday, May 17, 2012 6:25 PM
Today I received my official Kennel Club Name and Certificate. My standard poodle puppies will be Kennel Club Registered with an affix name Argentcymru. I am delighted having Cymru in the name which is Welsh of course for Wales. |
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Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2012 1:48 PM
 An ultra sound machine has confirmed that Sassy is in pup. Sassy was well-behaved and calm whilst the vet shaved her abdomen to perform the ultra sound. If all goes well sassy can expect her first litter of puppies on or around the 10th June
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Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2012 10:18 AM
Sassy and Arnie had another tie this morning. Now its all down to Mother Nature. The reason for the second tie is outlined below
A second mating 48 hours after the first is recommended where the bitch is still standing. It is important to be aware that the season does not automatically finish once the bitch is mated. She must be kept confined for at least another week until all signs of heat have disappeared.
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Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 3:39 PM
Sassy and Arnie had their first tie today at 9 am. Both were very calm and Sassy relaxed after her first initial cries :-(....The tie lasted for approx 10 mins.
 An explanation of a tie is explained below
A Tie is a natural phenomenon of dog breeding in which the bulbus glandis of the male's penis swells inside the bitch's vagina. The dogs are virtually locked together for 15-20 minutes (2 to 30 minutes is also normal), during which time ejaculation has taken place. The sperm was released at the beginning of the tie, during the happy feet dance (see below) . During the tie, he is releasing prostatic fluid.
As soon as the dogs lock the male usually moves his leg over her back, turns butt to butt and they remain locked. Tied.
It is advised that you give close supervision and maybe keep them calm. You do not want a larger female getting all scared and panicky and swing the male around by his penis, as it will get bruised and may make a repeat breeding failure. Do NOT attempt to separate. Instead, Get ON THE FLOOR and keep them calm. You do not want the female to panic and start squirming. If she is larger than the male she can really hurt the male. He is helpless and will usually stand perfectly still waiting. The male usually stands calmly, make sure the female does the same. Some females cry in what looks like pain, some desperately want to get free, some just seem to calmly wait.After a tie, it is good to not let the dam, pee for 15 minutes, but MOST important, is to check your male, and make sure that his penis, has gone back inside of him, and is not enstrangled, in hair, or stuck out.
100% supervision is advised during the mating process.
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Posted on Tuesday, April 03, 2012 7:03 AM
 Sassy and Lilly will have their eye examinations on Thursday 05/04/2012 for a Bva/Kc eye certificate. Their results will be posted alongside their hip and elbow results on the Kc website. I am not sure how long it takes for the eye tested to be posted there but they will be posted sometime soon. Hopefully they will have a "clear" result as I am hoping to mate Sassy on Sunday with Arnie..This will produce a litter of red and apricot puppies (hopefully). Nature has its own way of dictating the course of events so watch this space....but that is my plan god willing.
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Sunday, April 01, 2012 9:24 AM
Sassy, my (almost 3 year old) apricot standard poodle, has come into season and we will be mating her with my red standard poodle Arnie on Sunday 8th April and then again 48 hours later. Hopefully this will result in a healthy litter of Apricot and Red standard poodle puppies. After my last experience with Sandy having a C Section I am a little nervous....but hopefully lightening does not strike twice. |
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Posted on Saturday, January 21, 2012 9:17 AM
Boris left for his forever home last week and is settling in very nicely! He now lives in Plymouth with Mike and Jackie. It was heartbreaking saying goodby to the last of Sandys five boys, but of course when you breed you know that the time will come when the puppies will leave but when that time does come it is never easy! I enjoyed this litter tremendously! They were calm playful sweet natured clean and loving! That's without their stunning good looks! I dont know whether it was just having 5 puppies that made the puppies this way or the fact that i did things a little differently. All I know is that these 5 boys were a joy to raise.  I am fortunate to have Bear (pictured above with Kelly) 5 days a week with Milo. Bear lives with Kelly, Mike and Gill. Gill bought Mil nearly 2 years ago from me out of my first litter. The 2 boys live very happily together and Kelly and Gill cannot wait until next weekend when they can start giving Bear some short walks.Dougal has gone to live in Devon, Riley has gone to his forever home in Treorchy and Dylan in Switzerland (Dylan pictured above with Tristan) All 5 puppies gone to 5* homes..... |
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Posted on Saturday, January 21, 2012 8:22 AM
Last weekend had been a very long weekend! It started at 9am on the Friday morning when Roger left by car to travel to Harwich to catch the overnight ferry from Harwich to Esbjerg to collect Arnie and his sister Heaven and ended with Arnie's arrival home here at 5pm on the Sunday.   My first impression of Arnie was "WOW" look at his colour! Even though Andi had sent me countless pictures of Arnie and I knew and could see for myself that he was a red nothing could have prepared me for seeing his colour "in life". He has beautiful rich red colour hair and is cut in the show trim. Then when I got closer to him I could see what a very very pretty face he has....oh what a boy! He and I met and we both liked each other immediately. It must have been an experience for him coming away from the home he loved and from his mum and sister. He had travelled all the way from Denmark with a man in a car that he did not know and then coming into a new home with other dogs he did not know either. However, the boy took it all within his stride!!!! He was a little shy at first (which was to be expected), but within 24 hours was out on his walks with his new friends, enjoying being with us all. This transition has much to do with his socialization that he recieved from Andi at home in Denmark. She has done a wonderful job in nuturing her puppies. Arnie is a confident well adjusted well balanced happy and sociable young boy. A true credit to Andi!  So this first week has been a triumph! Arnie has settled in with all of us...Roger and I, the kids, the pack and all who come in contact with him love him! I look forward to updating this blog with Arnie's progress. |
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jane: Posted on Saturday, January 07, 2012 1:14 PM
Four puppies have left for their new forever homes and as usual it was a heartwrenching time. I have truly loved every moment raising these boys. They are clever, bright, beautiful looking, sweet , playful and calm. They are well socialized and enjoyable to watch and be around. One little chap...Snowy...is still looking for his forever home and I am sure that when the right home is ready Snowy will be ready to leave. The puppies have received their first vaccination and are microchipped. |
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jane: Posted on Sunday, January 01, 2012 1:54 PM
 Dylan is now preparing for his journey home to Switzerland with Karen, Pete, Mia and Tristan.Dylan is a sweet, gentle, watchful puppy who is playful, clever and quick! I will miss him very much! :-(....Here are some pics of Dylan with his new collar and lead and his travel case...Dylan needs to get used to his travel case so I place him in the case a little and often and I also place his litter mates in there too so he gets the smell of his brothers and home which will make his journey more comfortable and less stressful for him.   Dylan is going to a wonderful home as do all of my puppies. Responsible ownership, love and care of my puppies is all I ask for from people wishing to give one of my puppies a forever home. I love all my puppies as they are my babies...I know it sounds silly, but I do. For Dylan to live in Switzerland I had to organize a pet passport with my vet. Because Dylan is flying directly to Switzerland he did not have to receive the rabies vaccination. All we needed to sort out was his puppy vaccination, micro chip and details of the vet and a letter from the vet detailing certain criteria for a smooth entrance into Switzerland. Dylan is also able to fly with Karen in cabin as he will be under 8kg. |
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Posted on Friday, December 23, 2011 10:13 AM
 The puppies are now 6 weeks old, so Karen and I took all 5 for their puppy health check. This was their first visit to the vsts. They were very relaxed, calm and enjoyed the overall experience. The puppies were weighed and given the once over to check their coat, ears, eyes, heart, lungs, teeth and gums were all healthy and all 5 boys passed with flying colours! Infact Lizzy, the vet, said that if she didn't live in a flat she would have snapped up the red collar boy then! :-) They weigh from just under 4 kg (lilac collar) to 4,5kg (red collar)  The boys are confident and an absolute pleasure. They interact with all my other dogs andf with visiting dogs that i look after during the day (all are upto date with vaccinations flea and worm treatment) They are being taken out on car rides (which they promptly go to sleep!) and are being introduced to different and new experiences on a daily basis.They love their food...I feed prize choice raw food for breakfast and dried mixed with a little wet tinned food for late morning, early afternoon and supper. The boys are now fed 4 times a day. |
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Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2011 2:28 PM
 #1. Introduction If you help raise puppies from birth until they are ready to go to new homes, you will have a tremendous impact on their character and behaviour as adults, and, hence, on their future lives. Following these guidelines will help to ensure that the puppies you raise will be well adjusted and friendly in later life. 2. Why socialise? Puppies need know how to relate well to humans. More than anything else, this determines their success as pets, show dogs or working dogs. How sociable a dog will be is determined by the experiences it has as a puppy, especially those it has before the age of 12 weeks. Sociable dogs rarely bite and are less likely to be returned to breeders because of aggression. As well as humans, puppies need to be able to interact readily with animals that they may encounter in later life, such as other dogs, cats and livestock (see later how to ensure protection against disease). Socialising with other dogs at an early age can make the difference between a good pet that can be let off the lead to play and one that has to be taken out in the dead of night when all others are asleep.
It can also make the difference between a confident show dog that displays itself to the full and one that is worried by others and presents poorly.At the same time as socialisation is taking place, puppies also need to get used to the environments in which they are to live when they mature. They need to get used to things in the world that we take for granted. If this is done when the puppy is really young, it will be happy and confident in any new situations it may encounter later and much less prone to developing behaviour problems in later life.Puppies that have been well socialised will definitely make better pets, so you should be able to charge a premium rate for them. Explaining to new owners the work that has been done already and sending them away with the tools (see The Perfect Puppy & Training for Life as examples) to make sure they can continue with this is something that new owners should value highly .3. Timing As soon as a puppy is old enough to move around, it will approach anything or anybody willingly and without fear. By the time it reaches about 12 weeks of age, anything new will be approached with caution and trepidation. Therefore, the critical time for meeting people and other animals, and getting familiar with things in the environment is between 3 and 12 weeks of age. Puppies usually go to new homes from the age of about 6-8 weeks. This means that about 3 to 5 weeks of the critical socialisation time is spent with the breeder. During this time, puppies should be exposed to a whole range of different encounters and experiences to equip them for life in the human world.As a puppy gets older and its brain develops, it gradually becomes more and more able to take in and retain information. Therefore, it is necessary to begin slowly at a very young age and gradually increase the amount of exposure as the puppy matures. Puppies need to be continually socialised and exposed to different environments up to the age of one year if they are to stay sociable.
This is particularly important in the case of puppies that are kept in kennels and ‘run on’ to develop their show potential. By the time puppies are 7-8 weeks old and ready to go to new homes, they should be friendly and outgoing with people and other animals and readily accept any new situation they may find themselves in. In comparison, puppies that have been kept in kennels until this age will be shy, concerned about leaving the security of littermates and will actively avoid encounters with people and other animals. Outgoing puppies are more likely to develop a sound temperament and fit easily into new homes, whereas shy puppies readily develop unsociable tendencies making them less than perfect as pets or show dogs.The optimum period for socialisation is between 6 – 8 weeks and it is important that a lot of work is done with different people of all ages during this time.If this is not possible, it may be better to consider placing them in homes sooner rather than later where socialisation will occur more readily .4. How to be successful Use the ‘Sounds Familiar’ audiotape and the ‘Weekly Socialisation Chart’ every day to help you achieve and record progress (from #BeginLibraryItem "/Library/BLUECROSStextlink.lbi" The Blue Cross #EndLibraryItem )If the puppies’ mother is friendly and confident, have her present during socialisation. If she is nervous and unsure, it is best to socialise the puppies by themselves. It will be necessary to arrange for a number of different people of different appearance and ages to visit the litter from the age of 4 weeks onwards. As well as adults of all ages, it is important that puppies meet and have pleasant encounters with children of all ages; toddlers, school-age children and teenagers. It is not difficult to get families to play with puppies, but you will need to make an effort to find them. An advertisement in your local veterinary surgery, perhaps, may bring in local people of all ages who will be happy to help. All visits will need to be supervised to ensure that the puppies have enjoyable experiences.How much is enough?
The amount of time needed with people will vary according to age, but you should be aiming for a minimum of 30 minutes each per puppy per day by the time they are ready to go to new homes. Three or four sessions per day are better than one long one. Aim for someone to spend a few minutes per session with very young puppies, increasing it to at least 10 minutes as they get older.How many people will need to visit will depend upon how often they come and how long they stay for. Aim for at least one person other than those caring for the litter to see the puppies once a day from the age of 4 weeks onwards, each person visiting for at least two days. If a puppy gets to know about 10 people of all ages really well before they go to new homes, they should be happy in the company of most people later in life. When puppies have met many different types and ages of people in this way, they tend to generalise and react in a positive way to most people. Play and handling sessions
During each session, each puppy should be talked to, picked up, handled and played with individually. Soft collars of different colours can be put on during the session to help visitors distinguish between them. As the puppies get older, containing the ones not being worked with behind a barrier is useful as it allows for good quality one-to-one contact with each puppy. Visitors should be taught how to hold and lift puppies gently but securely so that they do not learn to struggle. Playing with toys should be a big part of the session. Use soft toys that can easily be carried by the puppy but which are too large to be swallowed. Teaching puppies how to play with humans at this early stage helps to avoid them learning to play-bite human hands. During each session, gently teach puppies to accept being handled all over. Gently examine ears, eyes, mouth and tails. They will also need to learn to cope with being restrained, holding on when the puppy struggles and letting it free when it relaxes, ensuring always that no discomfort is being caused. Once the puppies have got used to wearing a collar during these sessions, teach them to accept being restrained by it and, a few days later, to be held and walked on a lead (never use a check chain, only a soft buckle collar). Teaching them they cannot pull against the lead at this young age leaves a lasting impression that makes taking them for a walk much nicer in later life. Training puppies to ‘stand like a show dog’, ‘sit’ and ‘come’ when called with a ‘hands-off’ approach and titbits can begin as early as 6 weeks of age.Throughout early life, the puppies nails should be trimmed carefully and frequently by an experienced person so they learn to accept this.Animals needed
You either have different animals around or you don’t. Bringing in animals from elsewhere is not always recommended unless you are certain of their temperament and health status. If you do not have other animals around, taking the puppies out individually to meet confident cats and livestock should happen regularly from about 5 weeks of age. If you do have other animals around, puppies can begin meeting them from 4 weeks of age. Always plan ahead to ensure that the puppies are protected from injury and fright during these encounters.If puppies meet and have pleasant encounters with different breeds and sizes of adult dog at a young age, it ensures they will be able to relate well to others in later life. Make sure that all the dogs they meet are healthy, vaccinated, have not recently been walked in areas where other dogs have toileted, and are known to be good with puppies. Such dogs are not always easy to find, but contact with them will really make a difference to future temperament.Different experiences
You should aim for the puppies to have at least one new experience per day. This can range from placing a novel object in with the puppies during the 3rd week, to taking them out for short car rides at 5 weeks of age. Choose experiences that are unlikely to overwhelm them at their stage of development, but try to stretch them a little every day. Gradually accustoming the puppies to different experiences will provide an opportunity for them to become familiar with a wide range of different scents, sights and sounds. Remember to imagine how it feels to be that small, vulnerable and inexperienced and try to make sure each puppy is enjoying the experience and not feeling overwhelmed.If the puppies live predominantly in kennels, they will need many different experiences each day to ensure they will cope well with a household environment when they go to new homes. If you are unable to let the puppies grow up in a household, it would be very beneficial to bring them into the house during times when the family are cooking and eating. This is a time when there is much noise and movement and, even from behind a barrier, they will learn much that will help them adjust to family life in future. When they reach about 5 weeks of age, puppies can be taken on outings. Choose places where they will encounter different types of people, such as old people’s homes, school or veterinary surgery.Moving the whelping box to a different room or area about three times during the 7-8 week period will help to provide a chance of scene which will help them learn to deal with different environments .Different Smells Since a dog’s primary sense is that of smell, part of the socialisation process involves getting used to different scents. This can be achieved by hanging pieces of cloth in different places, such as the veterinary surgery, a kitchen or wiping them on a baby, a man (if only women care for the puppies), cat or another dog. This may not seem very important to us as humans, but it can play a big role in the process of familiarising puppies with the world outside. Keep It Positive
All encounters and experiences should be enjoyable. If puppies become scared or anxious, it will set back progress. Try to plan ahead so that unpleasant events are avoided and arrange for all encounters to be successful and rewarding. Visitors will need to be supervised and everyone responsible for the pups will need to learn to read their body language so that they will know whether they are enjoying the experience or not. Never overwhelm puppies with too much at once, and always allow them plenty of time for sleep and rest between each encounter.Learning to be alone
Puppies will need to learn to cope with being isolated from others by the time they are old enough to go to new homes. Begin this process slowly, beginning with each puppy being separated for a few minutes but able to see and hear its siblings.Gradually increase the time it is left alone for until it can cope with about 10 minutes isolation by the time it is 6 weeks old. If a puppy becomes unduly distressed when left alone at any stage, reduce the time it is left for, until it can cope and progress more slowly next time. After a period of isolation, give the puppy plenty of social contact with people rather than putting it straight back in with the litter as this will help to speed up the process of socialisation with humans.
Housetraining
As soon as puppies are able to move away from the nest, it is important to give them easy access to a toilet area covered with a material different to that which they sleep on. This will ensure that their instinctive desire to be clean is encouraged. As the puppies mature, it is useful to begin the habit of taking them out onto grass to eliminate as soon as they have woken up or just after a feed or play session. Praise and titbits given for toileting outside will encourage this behaviour.
5. Special needs for some pups Dogs from some breeds, such as Collies and German Shepherd Dogs, are more reactive and sensitive than others and they are likely to need more socialisation earlier than other breeds. They will also need very careful exposure to new experiences to ensure that they are not frightened, or overwhelmed, by too much too soon. Some puppies in the litter may also need more careful treatment than others, perhaps those that are smaller or more shy than their littermates. Taking care of individual puppies and making sure that each one is feeling comfortable with every situation will ensure that they all grow up to be well adjusted. 6. Keeping safe from diseasesVaccination v socialisation
Young animals are very susceptible to disease before their immune systems have had a chance to become effective. Very young puppies acquire some immunity from their mothers if she has been fully vaccinated, which protects them during the early weeks.This fades over time and needs to be replaced by immunity stimulated by vaccinations. Some vaccines (e.g. Nobivac) allow the vaccination course to begin at the age of six weeks allowing earlier protection than was once possible.Since keeping puppies isolated until they have developed full immunity can ruin their future character, a compromise must be reached between the need to protect against disease, and the need to ensure good mental health. As most of the socialisation will be with humans rather than other dogs, such a compromise is feasible and, if the following guidelines are adhered to, it is possible to socialise your puppies and avoid the risk of infection.
Until puppies are fully protected by vaccination they should:
- Not be allowed to mix with dogs of unknown vaccination status.
- Not be taken to parks or walked in other areas which other dogs have fouled
- Be taken out and about often in ‘non-doggy’ areas, carrying them if necessary to allow them to experience new sights and sounds without the risk of contact with disease.
Worms and children
Young puppies are likely to have more intestinal roundworms than adults, unless they have been adequately treated with medication. Humans can become infected with the larval form of the worm. The larva develops in the egg about 10 days or more after the faeces have been passed. Ask your veterinary surgeon for an effective worming medication (e.g. Panacur) and pick up and dispose of faeces regularly. For hygiene reasons, try not to allow the puppies to lick the children’s faces, particularly their mouths, encourage children to wash their hands after playing with the puppies.
7. Producing good pet dogs Socialisation is not difficult, but it does require a steadily increasing effort from the time puppies begin to move around to the time they go to new homes. For the stock that you decide to keep, maintaining the socialisation until the puppies are a year old will produce confident, sociable show or working dogs with excellent temperament. Such dogs will find it easier to cope later if the decision is made to place them in homes rather than keep them in kennels. Making the effort to socialise is always worthwhile, particularly if you have selected the parents for their temperament, as well as their looks. For the dogs that go on to be pets, all that is left to do is to choose suitable new owners. Breeders:Practical Socialisation – What to do Keep the environment friendly and safe, but not unnaturally quiet
Keep the mother present during socialisation, if she is friendly and confident Weeks 1 – 3
Pick up and hold each puppy gently every day
Stroke and examine all over Week 4
Handle each puppy individually every day
Novel object placed in with puppies daily
Cloths with different smells
Provide obvious sleeping place with easy access to toilet area What’s new in weeks 4-5
Arrange for new adults and children to visit
Teach puppies to play with toys
Familiarise with handling and gentle restraint until accepted
Familiarise with collars and leads
Provide items to chew
Meet cats and other animals on property
Carry individually to road to see traffic
Opportunity for exploration of new surfaces
Individual isolation in view of others for few minutes What’s new in week 5 onwards
Take out to meet other animals and people
Simple training using reward-based methods should begin
Lead training should begin
Short car journeys
More individual outings as they get older
Short periods of isolation for each puppy
Tasting different foods, dried and wet
Take out at appropriate time for toilet trainingAlso see Gwen Bailey's article on
Ingredients for the Perfect Puppy |
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Posted on Sunday, December 18, 2011 11:26 AM
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Posted on Saturday, December 17, 2011 10:40 AM
 Here are some pics of the adorable puppies at 5 weeks of age. They are now getting into everything. An absolute pleasure to watch! |
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Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 8:16 AM
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Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 11:58 AM
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Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 11:47 AM
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Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 12:51 PM
The Misty Method is one that begins with the breeder, teaching puppies the difference between an eating area, potty area, and sleeping area. By enforcing this at such an early age, they will always define the three spaces as separate, allowing you, once you pick up your new puppy from the breeder, to show them the three defined spaces in your home. At about 3 weeks, its time to take the confined space the puppies are living in, and break it down into three areas, eating, sleeping, and potty. By separating, they start to realize their food is always in the eating area, allowing them to eat with out jumping in their poop. Their sleeping area is where you place the cozy towel or blanket they like to snuggle up on. They begin to realize they play and sleep away from the other two areas. The potty area you want to put on the far end away from the sleeping area. This allows the puppies to realize potty is separate from all other areas of their life. Although the Misty Method is most used by breeders of mastiffs, it can be used by any breeders as the concept works with all puppies. The great part about having a breeder that uses this method of separating their three sections, is the easy transition the new owners have once they bring the puppies home. The thinking is that if puppies are raised in a cage with no separation of areas, they are raised to believe they can go potty anywhere with in their living quarters they want. This gives the new owner bad habits to break, and a longer puppy potty training cycle. This is the method I use when training my puppies....we still get the odd accidents but in the main the puppies go straight onto the paper to relieve themselves.  http://puppy-potty-training.org/tag/misty-method-potty-training/ |
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Posted on Thursday, December 08, 2011 8:29 PM
The puppies are today 4 weeks old and my lovely friend Karen has once again come up trumps in taking some great pics of the babies. I hope you like them! Week 4 is when I again worm the puppies with panacur.. They have made friends with the rest of the dogs in the home and the cats have taken a peep at them too. |
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Posted on Monday, December 05, 2011 1:54 PM
Sandy's puppies were brought down from the whelping room into the family room where I have set up an area which consists of a large crate, newspaper and a large puppy gate which seperates the puppies from the room, keeping them from chewing cables and wires and getting into things they really shouldn't be getting into, so it is a safety aspect as much as anything else. They have an area to play in too. However, when I am in the room and able to supervise their play they have full run of the kitchen family area. Roxy, my 5 1/2 year old black lab has taken a very keen interest in the puppies and adopted them on their arrival. She sleeps with them, cleans them, plays with them and even lets them suckle off her! She absolutely adores them! Weaning too has begun. Last night they polished off 400g off prizepets minced chicken, followed this morning with chicken and tripe....they were not that fussed on the tripe :-) They will also have CSj (cp27) too. They are drinking fresh water and still having a drink now and again off Sandy when she'll let them. The pups use the paper as a toilet fairly well too.....so, so far so good..... |
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jane: Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2011 10:00 PM
 Here we have some delightful pics of Sandy's boys aged 3 weeks today. Vibrant, playful, strong and healthy they really are the most beautiful 5 boys I have had the pleasure of breeding (but I am biased of course) This week they will join the family downstairs in the family room, where the start of the all important socialization begins. Weaning will start shortly and I think Sandy will be more than happy to share her role in the feeding stakes. What I am finding...even at this very early age...is that when you use a part of the whelping box as a bed (used with vet bedding) and the other part as paper, the puppies use the paper as their toilet! The puppies are playing and taking notice of their surrowndings. They eat, rest and play...sleep for the most part mind you |
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Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 8:44 AM
 Hugo and Missy look on at the newbies :-) |
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Posted on Sunday, November 27, 2011 8:29 AM
Missy is one smart cookie. On her 7th lesson she is able to do a clear round! This is not competitive...we do it just for fun and she has lots more to learn, but she shows real promise and I am very proud of her. Missy is now 21 months old. She is outstanding at obedience! The intelligence of this girl shines through. I am very proud and impressed with her. |
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Posted on Thursday, November 24, 2011 7:30 AM
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Posted on Wednesday, November 23, 2011 7:03 PM
Sandy's beautiful boys have been wormed and weighed today. The heaviest (pink collar boy) weighs in at 1.3 kg...the lightest boy ( purple collar) weighs in at 1 kg. All 5 boys are thriving. I took Sandy back to the vets yesterday for her 2 week check up after her operation and it looks like 2 stitches have openned leaving a small wound. The wound is clean and is not bothering Sandy so we will make sure it remains that way. Sandy is taking longer trips away from her boys now. She regularly tends to them...cleaning and feeding them. Their round, firm tummies are credit to her love of them, They are contented and calm. They are what I would call (after reading the signs of a healthy puppy in "Book of the Bitch") text book puppies....I am very proud of both Mum and Pups |
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Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2011 12:18 PM
Before Sandy had her emergencey C Section the emergency vet gave Sandy a shot of Oxytocin. At the time I wondered why she was doing this as surely this would have implications on the puppies still inside Sandy. You see, Sandy had a large puppy that was stuck inside her and the vet could not remove it. Sandy was still having contractions at this time. The vet then said she would give Sandy Oxytocin to help her remove the pup. When this failed too she then said the only alternative left was a C Section. This resulted in 5 of Sandy's pups dying. Why? Have a read. Oh and the vet also charged £1200 for this..... Precautions and Side Effects
While generally safe and effective when prescribed by a veterinarian, oxytocin can cause side effects in some animals. - Oxytocin should not be used in animals with known hypersensitivity or allergy to the drug.
- Oxytocin may interact with other medications. Consult with your veterinarian to determine if other drugs your pet is receiving could interact with oxytocin.
- Oxytocin should not be used if the foetus is in an abnormal position or is too large to pass through the birth canal.
- Oxytocin should only be used if the cervix is dilated.
- Oxytocin should not be used if an animal has uncorrected low blood sugar or untreated low blood calcium.
- If inappropriately used, oxytocin can cause uterine rupture or pain from excessive uterine cramping.
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Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 8:13 PM
After a very stressful first few days, we have all settled down and are all enjoying our 5 little boys. They are contented and peaceful. Here are a few pics of the boys. Sandy is eating more than enough to feed a small army...lambs liver, raw chicken wings dried and wet food and anything else she can get down her neck! |
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Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2011 10:26 AM
 Here are the little ones...3 days old. After all the stress I am now able to enjoy this beautiful litter. They feed well, rest well and are very contented. Sandy is an extremely attentive mother. She hardly leaves the whelping box and lays there all day letting the boys feed at their leisure. Here are a few pics at 3 days old. They are growing so quickly. |
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jane: Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2011 5:28 PM
Sandy has a stunning litter of 5 f1b goldendoodle boys. Three were born on the hour every hour from just before midnight to 2 a.m. It had been a very long day and an even longer night when at 3.30a.m. we set off to the emergency vets. Sandy's labor had not progressed from her 3rd puppy at 2a.m. and the vet advised us to take Sandy in as soon as possible. At 5a.m. Sandy underwent an emergency Ceserean Section. This resulted in Sandy losing 1 girl and 4 boys. The vet did manage to save 2 further boys, giving Sandy her beautiful litter of 5 chunky monkeys :-) All I could think was please god let Sandy be ok. Never did I think that a Ceserean would be an issue in Sandy's case, neither did I think that there was a possibility of losing my beloved girl through breeding! Afterall...its a natural thing isn't it?!!! Things that I have read since breeding all started to slot into place and I questioned myself for not laying greater importance on some of them. If I can give anyone advise that wants to breed then I would say this...the risks are real. It can happen to anyone..including you! Luckily for us all was not lost. We have our Sandy and the 5 little doodles.  Now....I want to concentrate on our new family members. The pictures are not the best and I do apologize and until my best friend Karen gets her Canon out we will have to settle for these. |
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jane: Posted on Friday, November 04, 2011 8:29 AM
My lovely Sandy has entered her final days of pregnancy. She is very happy, fit and healthy and I am still taking her on her walks, albeit she just walks now. In the past 3 litters I have used our dining room for the whelping, but this time we have moved the whelping box upstairs to a study room where it is completly away from the hustle and bustle of our bust household. So what should we expect from day 58?... Begin taking her temperature rectally twice a day.
The normal dog temperature is about 100.3F - 101.3F.
It will normally drop to about 98. degrees F 8 - 24 hours before the onset of labour and she will refuse to eat or drink anything.
NEVER EXPECT YOUR DOG TO DELIVER A LITTER BY HERSELF.
Although animal whelping is a 'natural event' this does not mean that the animal does not get into serious trouble if left unattended.
Mother and puppies frequently die because the owner thoughtlessly left her alone during this crucial time.
I have asked my dear friend Karen to sit with Sandy next week while I attend my dog walking duties and Karen has confirmed that she will gladly do this for her.  The next time I update my blog will be to announce the birth of the puppies....please wish Sandy a safe delivery of healthy puppies..... |
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Saturday, October 29, 2011 9:41 AM
Sandy is now into her 8th week of pregnancy and although she is showing no signs of slowing down she is getting bigger by the minute. Week Eight (Days 50-57) Development of the puppies
- Fetal movement can be detected when bitch is at rest
- Puppies can safely be born from now on
Changes in the bitch
- Milk may be squeezed from nipples
- The bitch will be very large.
Care of the bitch
To do List - Gather whelping kit
Prepare phone list for help/support. It should include your vet's phone number, the emergency clinic's phone number, the number of any friends who will be offering support during whelping, and anyone else you might need to contact before, during, or after whelping (like your office to let them know you won't be in!)
Make sure your car is has petrol and ready for a possible emergency trip to the vet's office.
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Sunday, October 23, 2011 8:16 AM
Yesterday (sat 22.10.2011) was Hugo and Missy's third week of class. Hugo in the obedience class and Missy in the agility/obedience class.
 Missy loves the agility, she jumps over the hurdles and runs through the tunnel with enthusiasm and drive! Its me that really now needs to get fit to keep up with her. Even though she has only been going to agility she shows a real aptitude for it and I must say it tires her out for the rest of the day. After 30 mins of agility we go on to do obedience. Yesterday consisted of the long sit and stay...putting Missy in the sit position and then leaving her for 10 paces to the right/left and then returning to her before the next exercise. Missy (f1 labradoodle) is a fast learner indeed.
 Hugo...one hour of obedience mentally finished me off for the day (afterwards I came home, had some food and went to bed for an hour :-)) This session is very intense and I have learnt so much about my dog and myself. In the lesson we learnt how to sit, stay, recall with heal. I learnt that my arm action with the lead in placing Hugo in the sit position,( whereby my left leg was next to his right leg) was wrong and that was why he sat away from me when told to sit. Just in learning this correct action has made training so much better and easier for not just Hugo but for my stress levels!I have also learnt that Hugo has separation anxiety barking, but the interesting thing it is not for me but for Missy (his pack girl) Missy is his comforter, his security blanket. He also barks because he feels he needs to show other dogs that he is not afraid of them, so he barks first! I now give a correction from the lead. This is starting to work. If I can give some valuable advise it is to find a great trainer like we have and invest in training your dog! |
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Saturday, October 22, 2011 11:29 AM
*********** 7th week ***********
Day 42 to 49
Developed puppies continue to grow. Dams will start shedding her tummy hair. If you haven't shaved your dam you may start finding lots of hair on the carpets.
Suggestions:Increase food... avoid home cooked unbalance foods. Try to make them eat a balanced diet, not just meat. But if your Dam starts getting fussy, doctor up her meals with cooked chopped beef heart, liver, chicken hearts etc... some extra meat is good... too much can cause problems.Stop all rough play and jumping
Sandy is now on CSJ Complete Premium Food for Working Dogs (CP27 Puppy) On the past 3 litters I have used Pro Plan and Royal Canen, but have decided to go with this make as all my dogs are fed on Csj. The above link will take you to the website.
  Sandy is now being wormed daily with panacur.This wormer is suitable for pregnant bitches and puppies proven safety for over 35 years A small dose from day 40 in pregnant bitches can reduce infection in puppies by 98% |
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Friday, October 14, 2011 1:00 PM
Week 6 : the turning point From day 42, the pace changes! Your bitch is entering the final third of gestation. 
The foetuses are developing fast, their skeletons, which started out as cartilage, now mineralise and solidify, and they gain weight!
An amazing three quarters of growth prior to birth occurs in this final third of gestation.The mother's requirements change
From the 6th week of pregnancy, the bitch's energy, mineral and protein requirements rise significantly in line with her puppies' rapid growth and in preparation for lactation.
At the same time her appetite and digestive abilities decline, particularly due to the increased volume of the uterus.
She therefore needs a balanced diet with a high nutritional value and a very high energy content.Energy supplies from week 6 = + 10 % per weekFrom day 35, your bitch needs a different diet , how can you do this?The change in diet must be gradual, taking place over a week to make sure that your bitch doesn’t suffer any digestive disorders. Start by mixing the new food with her usual diet and increase the amount a little every day. On day 3, mix half and half and then progressively reduce the former diet so that by the end of the week she will be eating just the new food. By day 42, the transition will be complete.Did youknowAt the end of pregnancy, the bitch's maximum weight gain =
+ 30 % of ideal weight (Mini or Medium sizes)
+ 25 % of ideal weight (Maxi or Giant sizes)The unborn puppies!The claws appear at around day 40, and then the coat forms and the skeleton ossifies.During this period, the puppies gain 75% of their birth weight |
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Sunday, October 09, 2011 10:07 AM
 My 20 month old F1 labradoodle Missy-Girl had her first taste of agility yesterday under the watchful eye of Mr. John Bills. After a very reluctant start, Missy took to jumping through hoops and running over the wooden bridge with the vigor of a dog that has been doing it for ages! :-) I was extremely impressed with her. There are no pictures from yesterday, but will try to take some next week.Hugo then had his obedience class. He too was very good and was well behaved and listened closely. Hugo will be 1 years of age in November and he will benefit from these classes immensely.
I suggest that if you want to get the most out of your dog then do take them to classes.
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Saturday, October 08, 2011 8:20 AM
Sandy's is in pup! :-) Her scan showed at least 4 heart beats and we are all delighted!  What to expect in week 5...
************ 5th week ************  
Day 28 to 35
At this time the fetuses begin to look like dogs; their toes, whiskers, claws all are developing. They have become boy and girl puppies, eyes that were open-now close. (When eyes are developing in the uterus, the eyes are developed in an open position and then they close and remain closed until about 10 days old or so.)
Embryos are MUCH more resistant to development problems.
The Dam's weight will begin to increase, and swelling will begin to be noticeable. If you have given a maternity haircut swelling will be easier to see.
Suggestions
--Increase food slightly, & start change-over to puppy kibble gradually. Feed morning and evening and start with a healthy lunch snack, including a multivitamin and an optional: 1/2 egg every day for small breeds and full egg every day for large breeds.
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Monday, October 03, 2011 4:42 PM
 Here are a few happy pictures taken by Karen last Friday on our dog walk in Caerleon. It was a hot and sunny September afternoon but the dogs still managed to enjoy themselves. |
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Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2011 6:05 PM
 I find this book easy to read and easy to follow. Again I think this book is a must for all new dog owners.
Make training fun and effectiveThis friendly guide shows you how to select the right training method for your dog, based on his unique personality, to reach your desired goals. Whether you want to teach Buddy to sit or master retrieving, you'll get expert training tips and techniques for you and your dog — to ensure a mutually respectful relationship with your four-legged friend. - Concentrate on canines — discover why your dog acts the way she does, understand her nutritional needs, and ready yourself for the task of training your dog
- Prep for your pup — prepare your home for your puppy's arrival, discover the importance of socialization, and get started on housetraining
- Put your best paw forward — teach basic commands like Sit, Stay, and Down, and get the scoop on how to deal with doggie don'ts like chewing, digging, and excessive barking
- Take training to the next level — get involved in organized dog activities and competitions, where you'll both show off impressive tricks like retrieving, figure 8s, and much more
Open the book and find:- Step-by-step instructions for teaching your dog basic commands
- Helpful advice on crate training
- Safe ways to address aggression and separation anxiety
- Tips for teaching Buddy to behave himself around people and other dogs
- Techniques to keep your senior dog feeling young
- Health issues that can interfere with training
- Experts to turn to for training help
Learn to:- Use positive reinforcement as an effective teaching tool
- Select the gear you need for training success
- Teach the basics including Sit, Stay, and Down
- Eliminate unwanted behavior
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Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2011 5:56 PM
 I am in the process of reading "Book of the Bitch" and I am am finding it incredibly useful and informative. It is a must read....
Written by experts, J M Evans, an internationally respected vet and Kay White, a journalist and author, this book is relevant to both the experienced breeder and the novice bitch owner. Whether or not you intend to breed, the more that you understand about how bitches function, think and learn, the more pleasure she is likely to give you and the happier and healthier she will be.The procedures for whelping and puppy rearing is carefully explained and detailed advice is given on the diseases to which bitches are prone. A 'Must Have' for all bitch owners. |
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Friday, September 30, 2011 1:03 PM
 ************ 4th week **********
Days 21 to 28(Vet can Palpate (feel) and possibly detect pregnancy. Between days 27 and 31(after day 32, fluids increase to protect pups and making palpating not possible.
--Fetus's grow from 5-10mm to 14-16mm, faces take shape, eyes and spinal cords developed.
--At this stage the embryos are most susceptible to defects and it is said that even eating a toxic substance at this stage can cause
eyes to not form properly, or cause 'Cleft Palate'
FACT or FICTION, I am not sure. Many congenital defects, and genetic defects have the mode of inheritance still unknown.
But for the sake of your Dam and pups, make sure your environment is a safe one.
--The Dam may have a clear, odorless vaginal discharge, and her teats may begin to develop.
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Jane Murphy: Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2011 3:28 PM
A well and happy Sandy will have her pregnancy confirmed by scan on Friday 7th October at 6.10p.m. An accurate count of pups may not be possible but at least we will know whether Sandy is in pup. She will be 5 weeks pregnant on the date of the scan. |
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jane: Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2011 9:32 AM
 Often, in the 3rd week after mating, she will go off her food for about 10 days.
this can be compared to the human 'morning sickness' although a dog does not usually vomit.
You will notice that her vulva - the area around her vagina, did not return to the normal small size it was before mating, but looks rather enlarged.
There is normally no discharge during a pregnancy.
If you do see a discharge, then take her to the Veterinarian.
She may have an infection, or be losing the litter, or have developed a case of Pyometra, which, if left untreated, can kill her.
She needs a good exercise program, which involves a daily run to make sure all her muscles, including her uterine muscles, are in top condition.
She also needs a very high quality diet.
This is not the time to scrimp on her feeding formula.
Mother Nature tries to insure the survival of the species, so if the diet is lacking in any ingredient ,calcium or zinc for example, the developing puppies ( whelps) will take from the mother's body what they need to grow healthy, and therefore her body will become depleted.
DO NOT ADD ANY VITAMIN SUPPLEMENTS IN THE FIRST MONTH OF PREGNANCY.
BIRTH DEFECTS WILL DEVELOP FROM TOO MUCH VITAMINS A & D.
DO NOT GIVE ANY MEDICINE NOW EITHER WITHOUT THE EXPRESS ORDER OF THE VETERINARIAN. |
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jane: Posted on Saturday, September 17, 2011 7:52 AM
 Sandy has now settled back into the pack having been seperated from them for the past 2 weeks of her season. I was very careful to keep my boys away from her as they are now becoming sexually aware and I did not want an accidental mating between them. However, she has now passed the time when they are interested in mating with her and any overly friendly advances from the boys are given a sharp telling off from Sandy herself.. This is day 20 of her heat and she is now into (what i hope to be) the second week of pregnancy. A LOOK INTO THE HEAT CYCLE Here is a an explanation of the heat cycle, so you can better evaluate if your dog was bred at the "right time": The heat cycle is basically divided into phases which when combined, average about 21 days. The first phase is called Pro-estrus and you will be aware of this stage because it is when the vaginal bleeding and vaginal swelling occurs. This phase lasts about 7 to 10 days. If male dogs are around they will be interested in the bitch but she will be reluctant and refuse him to mount. The second phase is the fertile phase called the estrus phase. This is when the the female is actually fertile. The bleeding has stopped and it is replaced by a yellowish vaginal discharge. This phase will last about 4-13 days. She will be more tolerant and will keep her tail to the side. She will allow the male to mount at this point. If you witness "a tie" where they are both stuck together for a while, then very likely puppies are on the way. The third and final stage is the diestrus and is when the female again will be reluctant to mate, because she is no longer fertile. The male though may still try to mount. The estrus phase therefore, is the crucial phase, it usually occurs between the 7th and 10th day after the bleeding has started. This is the time you will be looking for if you are planning to successfully breed. |
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jane: Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2011 12:53 PM
 *********** 2nd week ***********
Day 7 to 14
Between days 7 and 14 days, the cell will start being a 4 cell, and will separate into 64 cells. At this time the Embryo's enter the uterus.
(same care and suggestions as week one) |
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jane: Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2011 12:49 PM
*********** 1st week ***********
Fertilization: You may notice mild morning sickness and personality changes in the Dam. Watch for vaginal infection from breeding. Some Dams will have a pink discharge, like a very light period.
Suggestions: (Remember, take your Vets advise always over
anything you read on the web.)
-- Keep feeding as you were (hopefully high end foods) A recommended food Additive (approx 25%) mix to high-quality kibble is tripett : "pronounced tri-pet" - green tripe - a premium, all natural pet food made from only the highest quality green tripe. Green tripe is filled with digestive enzymes and promotes good overall health among other things. 
-- Keep exercising as you were (hopefully she has been exercised and in good shape prior to mating if not start moderate daily exercise)
Do not give any medications without vet approval. If you did not worm her prior to mating (which is standard), then get a mild wormer that is made for pregnant dams. Stop flea treatments and any other insecticides. Do NOT give any live Vaccinations. |
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jane: Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 6:45 AM
I thought this maybe something that people looking for a puppy may find useful...whether it be buying a puppy from me or from anyone else. Of course the breeder will have been observing and evaluating their litter since birth and may use this as a tool to help in the overall assessment and not as a major determinant. |
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jane: Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2011 8:07 AM
 My lovely Sandy has tied with TD Louis. Hopefully this will result in a litter of F1b Goldendoodles 63 days from now. In 1 month I will take Sandy to the vets for a scan which will then confirm her pregnancy. :-) Sandy, is upto date with all of her vaccinations, worming and flea treatments (as are all of my dogs). She is fit and healthy and has never had to visit the vets...thank goodness!!! Given this and given that TD Louis is also in his prime, fit, healthy and fully vaccinated ...we should be looking at a beautiful, healthy litter of puppies due around the 6th November.  The picture is of Sandy and TD Louis tied. |
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jane: Posted on Sunday, September 04, 2011 1:56 PM
My four girls have come into season together, but only Sandy will be mated this year. Lilly and Missy have not been health tested yet and Roxy is has had a year off. Roxy has had 2 litters of puppies and we are considering have her neutered. |
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